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Essential
Architecture- Egypt
Mosque al-Aqmar |
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architect
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location
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Cairo |
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date
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1125 |
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style
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Islamic Fatimid |
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construction
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type
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Mosque |
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Plan
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Facade
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El-Aqmar Mosque (Gray Mosque)
by Ismail Abaza
In the heart of the Fatimid city, north of the site once occupied
by the great Fatimid palace, stands a small but important mosque known
as al-Aqmar, which means "The Moonlit", sometimes also known as the Gray
Mosque. it was founded by Ma'mun al-Bata'ihi, during the caliphate of
al-Mustansir. It was built during a time of great political and
spiritual crises for the Fatimid regime. It is located on the main
artery of the city. In plan, it is a regular, rectangular hypostyle
mosque with a square courtyard. It is essentially the plan of a small
congregational mosque.
This structure is of major importance for Cairo's architecture
for several reasons. First of all, it is one of the seminal monuments in
Cairo's architectural history, being the first mosque with an entrance
that is not on an axis with the qibla wall. Here, the facade follows the
alignment of the street, while the qibla wall is oriented to Mecca. It
is therefore the first example of a mosque in Cairo with a ground plan
adjusted to an existing urban street plan, a phenomenon which over the
ensuing centuries was to become increasingly common and complex. Here,
the plan is rather simple. For the most part, the interior has a regular
layout with the exception that the facade wall is thicker on one end
than the other. Into the thicker part of the wall, a vestibule, a
staircase and two rooms opening into the interior were built.
It is also the first mosque in Cairo to have a decorated stone
facade. The facade is brick faced with stone. A wing to the right of the
entrance salient, balancing that to the left, was covered up by a later
house. However, in the 1980s, a restoration by the Bohara Indian sect
unveiled the hidden part and returned the facade to its original
balanced proportions.
The middle of the tripartite composition is dominated by a
protruding portal decorated with a large keel arch niche carved with
fluting radiating from a central medallion, like a sunrise or shell
motif. The medallion has the name of Muhammad repeated in a circular
interlacing pattern forming a circle, with the name 'Ali at the center,
all in Kufic and pierced right through the stone. This is all surrounded
by a circle of arabesque and of pierced Kufic, with a final circular
band decorated with interlacing scrolls. The work of engraving and
piercing shows both skill and perfection.
The ribbed shell hood of the entrance salient, with its pierced
medallion, appears here for the first time, and was the prototype of all
the later cusped, ribbed, blind, keel-arch decoration which remains
somewhat vogue on Cairo's buildings.
The niches on either side of the entrance are each crowned with
four tiers of stalactites. Set back within these are two smaller ones,
each having a small fluted semi-dome. Above these two niches are two
small ones, each having a fluted hood, supported by two engaged columns.
The stalactites present the first introduction of this element into the
design of a facade.
To the left of the portal another shallow niche repeats the
sunrise or shell motif with a medallion in the center. Above it, a
circular clean cut in the stone reveals the brick wall, indicating that
a medallion once existed there. Two lozenges, one with geometric carving
and the other with a vase and plant motif, are surmounted on both sides
of the missing medallion by two strange, carved panels. The one to the
right represents a closed door, similar to the door of al-Hakim (now in
the Islamic Museum), and the one to the left shows a niche with a
geometric grill resembling a window. From its apex hangs a lamp.
Undoubtedly, the al-Aqmar mosque has a highly symbolic meaning
within a Shi'a context. The two plants standing in the vase has been
interpreted to be symbolic of Hasan and Husayn, sons of the Caliph 'Ali
by his wife Fatima. This pattern is also frequently repeated in
Christian Coptic art, with many examples existing in the Coptic Museum
in Old Cairo. The niches with the hanging lamp and closed door placed
symmetrically on each side of the missing medallion might be more than
mere decoration.
There are three inscription bands that run along the facade. The
first, at the summit, contains the name of Al Amir Bi-Ahkam-Allah and
next to it is the name of his Wazir (Minister) Ma'mun al-Bata'ihi,
together with his titles, and the date of foundation. The second runs at
the springing of the entrance arch. This too contains the names of al-
Ma'mun and his titles and the date of foundation. This fashion, the
combination between the names and titles of the Caliph (Ruler) and Wazir,
shows what influence the Ministers of State had attained towards the end
of the Fatimids period. The third band runs at the level of the door
lintel and only contains verses from the Quran.
Another special feature of the facade is a chamfered corner
carved with the names of Muhammad and 'Ali.
The original minaret has not survived. We can see on the left
door jamb of the portal the circular base of the minaret built in the
late fourteenth century by Amir Yalbugha al-Salami. It is a brick
construct covered with stucco chevron carving and a molding with open
work bosses and a stalactite cornice. Above the balcony, the structure
is of even later date.
The interior of the mosque has not retained much of its original
form. The small sanctuary has three aisles and faces the courtyard with
only a triple arcade. A fine example of Fatimid wood carving in situ
with its panels of arabesque ornament can be seen on the closet door on
the northwest side of the sanctuary. The three other arcades have only
one aisle each. Bands of Quranic verse in Kufic script on an arabesque
background still survive around the keel arches of the courtyard, which
are supported on marble columns. The keel arches did not appear in Egypt
until the latter part of the Fatimids period, and were first seen in the
dome of Sheikh Ynis, attributed to Badar al-Gamali. Here, the spandrels
are decorated with shallow saucers composed of eight ribs radiating from
a central medallion.
A special feature of the interior architecture is that each bay's
ceiling is covered by a shallow brick dome, instead of being flat,
except for the aisle parallel to the qibla wall, which is wider than the
rest and is covered with a flat wooden ceiling. As the mosque was in
ruins when the Mamluk Amir Yalbugha al-Salami, during the reign of
Sultan al Zahir Barquq, restored it in 1396/97 (799H), some scholars
assume that he also restored the ceiling, which originally could have
been flat. This type of ceiling is not known from the Fatimids period,
but is used in the early fifteenth century at the mosque of Faraj Ibn
Barquq.
Yalbugha al-Salami also restored the minbar, which still
nevertheless retains its Fatimid ornament, which can be observed on the
entrance arch and at the back of the speaker's seat.
Except for some wood carving on the beams and doors and a stucco
inscription band along some of the arches, nothing of the original
interior decoration remains.
The mosque was once again restored in the nineteenth century
during the reign of Muhammad 'Ali by Amir Sulayman Agha al-Silahdar, who
also built the mosque across the street from this one.
Originally, the mosque of Al-Aqmar was not at street level as it
is today, but much higher than the street, standing above a row of
shops. The rising ground level has now buried the these shops. However,
at the time, they had an important function. The income of their rents
were waqf, an endowment for the benefit of a pious institution for
maintenance and to pay its personnel long after the founder's death.
Resources:
Title Author Date Publisher Reference Number
Al Qahira Sassi, Dino 1992 Al Ahram/Elsevier None Stated
Cambridge Illustrated History Islamic World Robinson, Francis
1996 Cambridge University Press ISBN 0-521-43510-2
Historical Cairo (A Walk Through the Islamic City) Antonious, Jim
1988 American University in Cairo Press, The ISBN 977-424-497-4
Islamic Monuments in Cairo, A Practical Guide Paker, Richard B.;
Sabin, Robin; Williams, Caroline 1985 American University in Cairo
Press, The ISBN 977 424 036 7
Mosque, The: History, Architectural Development & Regional
Diversity Frishman, Martin and Khan, Hasan-Uddin 1994 Thames and Hudson
LTD ISBN 0-500-34133-8
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links
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http://www.touregypt.net/ |
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www.essential-architecture.com
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